Wednesday, August 27, 2008

English Immersion

I really hit my stride in August in my new role as a lady of leisure. I spent the first week or so of the month camping on Bronwyn & Trevor's couch in Cambridge, with occasional forays into London. This was my first time in Cambridge, and I was taken by its quaint cobblestone streets, grand stone buildings, idyllic greens, and meandering river. I spent my days exploring Cambridge (often on a 'critical' mission such as a hunt for Tarragon vinegar), binging on *English* magazines, and partaking in *English* group exercise classes (my favourite was a long-awaited kickboxing class with Bronwyn where we finally donned gloves together). I greatly enjoyed food, drinks, and conversation with B&T in the evenings, either at home or at one of Cambridge's many vibrant locales. I particularly relished our cider and chips picnic at Mill Pond - picture our wedding spot at Jericho beach and add a gaggle of Brits having a pint! The (not so hidden) geek in me also relished our late night jaunt to the flat where Darwin once lived, a mere few blocks from B&T's abode. Another highlight was an outing to London with Bronwyn where we treated ourselves to dinner and a show - the Jersey Boys (musical) - which I highly recommend.

I also spent a fun weekend in London with Jerel, his parents and sister (who were in town for a 10 year Pepperdine exchange reunion). We all enjoyed a scenic sunset cruise, passing under London Bridge, and an afternoon strolling the city (Hyde Park, Camden market) and cruising the canals. Our friend Peter who works with Jerel and is also doing the program abroad generously let us stay at his place in London, and gave us a taste of what our life could look like 3-6 months from now. We both came away excited about the possibility of being based there for Part 2 of our year abroad.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Top Ten Things I WON'T Miss About Moscow

1-5. Language Barrier – This issue was by far the biggest source of frustration and difficulty for me… so much so that I’ve given it the top 5 spots on my list. The issue for me was not so much that I couldn’t ask for what I wanted, but that I felt so isolated from my surroundings.
6. Prices – With the exception of groceries and street-snacks, it seemed that just about everything was ridiculously expensive. The cost of rent and hotels was off the charts, and dining out was similarly unpalatable – we started to see a $100 dinner bill as a steal rather than a splurge!
7. Traffic – Moscow’s relentless traffic illustrates well the drawback of a ring-radial street layout … particularly at the center ring, where we lived. I usually traveled on foot but Jerel was often stuck in traffic for ages, and our few excursions out of town or to the airport really made me really appreciate ‘normal’ traffic!
8. Smoking – Self-explanatory…
9. Our Apartment’s ‘Quirks’– It was overall a great apartment but certain aspects I’m glad to leave behind: the lack of hot water during the last 2 weeks; the nightly mosquito all-out-wars (no A/C); the daily construction racket across the street and across the hall.
10. Elusive “Essentials” – It wasn’t unusual for me to spend an entire afternoon scouring the city for a single item that I would normally be able to find with ease in any North American city. Some of my hard earned prizes were: a can opener, a cheese grater, an oven mitt, a hand blender, an iron, and a hairdryer. This item is only sortof a ‘con’ because these missions provided a great excuse to stroll the city for hours and gave me a small sense of satisfaction when I was ultimately victorious!

Top Ten Things I'll Miss About Moscow

1. Dr. Loder – There was no such thing as a regular gym in our neighborhood so I was “forced” to join a fancy health club. It ended up being a great investment, as my extended gym visits were always a highlight of my day, as well as a key source of my limited Russian vocabulary. I bravely attended a wide range of group exercise classes including: “Spinning” (Cycling), “Impact” (Kickboxing), “Hot Iron”, “Sculpt”, Dance Aerobics, Step, Aqua Aerobics, Yoga and Pilates. The instructors were kind enough to keep an extra eye on me to make sure I didn’t make too much of a fool of myself due to my inability to understand their instructions. After a few weeks of persistence, I felt wordlessly accepted by my fellow regulars; one of whom even invited me for lunch!
2. The Kremlin /Red Square – We lived only a few blocks away from this happening place, so it became a familiar sight. During the day, it was buzzing with locals and tourists alike, and at night it was quiet and majestic.
3. Eliseevsky Gastronome – As luck would have it, our neighborhood grocery store was also a gorgeous historical site, with palatial origins. I was a frequent customer at this 24 hour shop but never tired of its spectacular, opulent decor. This seems like a good place to make a confession: I’ve turned from a tomato-hater to a tomato-lover! I don’t think a day passed when I didn’t buy a box of cherry tomatoes…In my defense, Jerel and other experienced tomato eaters have told me that Russian tomatoes are among the best in the world, and far superior to what North America offers.
4. Shopping Stalls – I was also a regular customer at the portable stalls half a block from our apartment, and will miss the ultra-convenient access to a small selection of drinks, produce, dairy, and nuts. I will also miss the ubiquitous cheery UBETBl stalls (flowers) and the pastry stalls where I treated myself to “C-makom” (translation: with poppy seeds), as well as the wide range of underground stalls where I could always pick up nail polish or a pair of fishnet stockings in a pinch!
5. Coffee Bean – I became a regular at this spacious yet cozy café a block from our apartment. The staff’s English skills were variable, but this is one place where they consistently made an effort to communicate with non-Russians. I became addicted to Frappes, and at one point they were able to guess my order when I came in for my daily visit.
6. The Moscow Times – I enjoyed a leisurely read of this English paper almost daily during my visits to the Coffee Bean. The articles were an interesting mix of propaganda (“Medvedev Scores at G8”) and reality (“Medvedev Vows to Fight Corruption”). I became well acquainted with Russia’s oil and steel companies, as well as with the scary extent of Putin and Medvedev’s influence.
7. People Watching – Just when you’d think you’d seen the most outrageous outfit of the day, another would come along to take the cake. Miniskirts, daisy-dukes, sheer or midriff bearing shirts were the norm.. Unfortunately, I think I missed the ultimate prize winner – Jerel told me he saw a woman at Coffee Bean wearing an utterly sheer dress so that her lingerie was on display for all to see!
8. Cyrillic Signs – Even though I prefer to be surrounded by signs that I actually understand, the Cyrillic signs appealed to the detective in me as I loved the satisfaction of deciphering them. One funny moment was when we realized that the ubiquitous and diverse restaurant chain that we loved called ‘PECTOPAH’ was actually just a sign for “restauran(t)”.
9. The Seven Sisters – There’s something about these buildings… you could almost always see one or more of these imposing towers in the distance, reminding you of Stalin’s oppressive rule.
10. Random Acts of Kindness – The list isn’t very long but the typically stoic nature of Russians made these moments extra special. I already reported on the flowers incident. A more recent one was when a regular at my gym piped up in my defense to the instructor telling her that I spoke a little Russian when she seemed concerned that I wouldn’t be able to keep up with the Dance Aerobics class that was about to begin!

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Do Svidanya Mockba

Jerel and I checked out of Moscow and are now in Cambridge/London for the week. Our multi-purpose trip includes work training for Jerel, visiting friends (Bronwyn/Trevor and Sarah), and visiting the Davises.

I wasn’t quite prepared for how good it would feel to be back in English speaking territory. I’m finding that the smallest things are bringing me surprisingly great joy - exchanging a knowing look with a fellow passenger on the tube when your neighbor is clearly acting strangely, overhearing snippits of conversation on the street, ordering a at a café with ease, and asking (and receiving) directions...

I have to admit that I feel relieved to be done with Moscow, and feel some how like a survivor. I’m glad to have experienced the “riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma”, and have plenty of fond memories of Moscow, but at the same time, it was exhausting to be such an outsider and to constantly struggle to communicate with everyone around me. Stay tuned for some musings on what I will and will not miss about Moscow.

Monday, July 28, 2008

More Moscow Marvels

Our Moscow weekend with Tyson was definitely one for the books. We experienced some of Moscow's finest marvels – inside the Kremlin and St. Basil’s Cathedral – as well as a few choose-your-own adventures.

The Kremlin was a powerful and fascinating place, with many evocative reminders of Russia’s rich history. A few of the Kremlin’s notable sites are: Ivan the Great Bell Tower, featuring the world’s largest bell (the ‘Tsar’s Bell’); the Tsar’s Cannon, a massive (40 ton!) ornate showpiece cast in 1586; the Patriarch's Palace, which provides a glimpse into the life of a XVII century Russian Orthodox Church leader; and several gold-domed cathedrals from the XV-XVI centuries.

My favourite part of the Kremlin was the Armoury, which houses not only armour, but also a remarkable collection of Tsarist riches and artifacts. As a former tomboy, I hate to admit it, but the highlights for me were the Cinderella-style carriages (and winter sleighs) and the extravagant garments including Catherine the Great’s coronation dress from 1745. Jerel and Tyson joked they must have altered the waist afterwards to make her look extra slim as no human’s waist could actually be that small! I also got a kick out of the collection of Faberge eggs and the display of crowns, many of which had fur lining!

The three of us also shared a venturesome trip to the suburbs of Moscow to take in a classical concert at the Arkhangelskoe Estate. On the metro leg of the journey, Tyson joined me in pulling a mischievous prank – sneaking to the next car of the train when Jerel fell asleep. You should have seen how quickly Jerel moved when he woke up at the next station and found two empty seats facing him! He was a great sport and forgave us quickly after we ushered a confused Jerel into our train just before the doors closed. It was pouring rain during the second leg of our journey, and we endured what felt like a never-ending gypsi taxi ride with a chatty man from Azerbaijan. He was very friendly but was disturbingly uninterested in watching the road while he drove, and was also very reluctant to wind up the windows despite the muddy tidal waves from passing cars that were literally drenching us…and to top it off, the seatbelts didn’t work. Tyson and I were both white-knuckled by the end of the ride but Jerel somehow managed to keep his cool (…something to do with years of LA driving?). Thank goodness we were headed directly to a classical concert… by the end of the 90 minutes of wonderful Baroque music, seated in a beautiful intimate room overlooking the estate grounds, we were all mellow and smiling again!

Friday, July 25, 2008

Tour de Moscow

We were recently joined in Moscow for a week by our friend Tyson who is working in Romania for the summer. It was truly surreal to be hanging out like old times – enjoying lingering meals and watching ‘Lost’ or ‘YouTube’– yet to look out the window and see a Russian flag against a midnight sunset!

Jerel was unfortunately very busy with his real-world obligations so I had the pleasure of touring Moscow with Tyson. The long summer days allowed us to take in many sights - both ‘old’ favourites and new territory. Highlights include:

  • Red Square – This must-see site is much more vibrant and beautiful than I had expected; flanked on one side by the Kremlin’s magnificent towers, and home to the fairytalesque St. Basil’s Cathedral as well as Lenin’s Mausoleum (which I have yet to enter).
  • GUM – Bordering Red Square, this site has evolved from an informal trading market in the XVth century to the grandest mall I’ve ever seen. Tyson and I took refuge here during one of the many recent thunderstorms.
  • Novodevichy Convent – This UNESCO World Heritage site provides a glimpse into the life of a Tsar’s discarded wife! The convent is still active (after a long hiatus) and is a peaceful and picturesque place to visit, set on a pond and built in the Baroque style.
  • Moscow State University – Although we didn’t make it inside the university itself (I was literally stiff-armed at the security check!), we enjoyed strolling the expansive grounds and admiring the majestic main building, which is the tallest of the ‘Seven Sisters’ – a collection of Gothic/Baroque style skyscrapers commissioned by Stalin that are sprinkled around the city).
  • Tretyakov Art Gallery – This gallery houses the best collection of art from Russian artists and spans the XI –XX centuries. Despite my artistic ignorance I was able to appreciate the artistic evolution and get to know a few Russian masters.
  • Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts – Tyson and I were blown away by this surprisingly quiet gallery which houses an astounding collection of IX-XX century European art (questionably acquired) and is especially rich in impressionist works including famous pieces by Cezanne, Monet, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Matisse, Picasso and more as well as sculptures from Rodin and others.

The list goes on thanks to an action-packed weekend but I’ll save that for another entry as I’m afraid I’ve lost most of my readers with this lengthy one!

Tyson is an avid photographer so feel free to check out his page for an impressive selection of Moscow photos (click here).

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

One Year Wedding Anniversary

Jerel and I marked our first wedding anniversary on July 1 (ahem, yes, 3 weeks ago!). We had both been hankering for time with mother nature, so we celebrated with a weekend getaway to small lake just outside Moscow (Bear Lake). We weren’t quite sure what to expect as the venue had no website but the prospect of a wooded lake setting within easy reach of Moscow lured us in despite the uncertainty.

In terms of setting and facilities, ‘The Club’ delivered what we had hoped for. We had a spacious room with a balcony, overlooking the forest and lake, where we enjoyed relaxing and rowing about. The lone restaurant was very pleasant, serving tasty food, and offering a scenic patio with comfortable couches. We were pleased to find the hotel and restaurant staff to be unusually eager to accommodate such inept Russian speakers.

When it came to atmosphere, on the other hand, it wasn’t quite what we had in mind…the constant techno music (even at breakfast!) was just a tad disruptive. On the upside, our fellow guests treated us to a glimpse of the fun side of Russians, typically well-hidden behind a serious facade. We greatly enjoyed watching as they laughed and danced the night away to songs like ‘The Ketchup Song’, aided by seemingly endless rounds of vodka shots.