Sampling Belgium with Katharina

Ezra's girlfriend, Katharina is a notorious chocoholic, so it wasn't hard to talk her into coming to Brussels from Berlin for a weekend visit. She arrived the day after passing her grueling medical school written exams, providing a good excuse to indulge in a celebratory weekend.  Friday, we showed Katharina our favourite Brussels sites, shops and neighborhoods stopping to fortify ourselves with chocolate as needed.  We capped off a delicious day by inaugurating our balcony as we enjoyed some of Belgium's finest raspberry beer.

Saturday, we ventured to two nearby flemish cities - Antwerp and Ghent.  It was our first time in Antwerp where we were struck by the extent to which shopping dominated the city's activities - the main streets were bustling with trendy, upscale shops, while the rest of the city was strangely deserted. We had visited Ghent for the first time the previous weekend and were eager to return to this lively city - Ghent has much of the old-fashioned charm of its famous neighbor, Brugge, yet seems to have more of a real life going on beneath the surface. 

Jerel left for Shanghai after brunch on Sunday, so Katharina and I seized the opportunity to cruise Brussels' various antique and craft markets at a leisurely pace, again stopping for chocolate (or waffles) for fortification as needed!  The pink room is again ready and waiting for more guests...

For more photos from our celebratory weekend please click here.

Lausanne - Easter Wedding Extravaganza

The wedding of our friends Peter and Natacha in Lausanne gave us the perfect excuse to visit Switzerland. Lausanne was in peak form - the views across sparkling Lake Geneva towards dramatic snow-capped French Alps were amazing, and the city itself lived up to my Swiss stereotypes in being impeccably groomed and well-organized. Friday’s theme was getting to know our fellow guests while enjoying our surroundings. A group of twenty or so of us journeyed to a local winery, first by ferry then on foot through the vineyard-covered hills, before returning to Lausanne by train for an evening of pizza and drinks.

Saturday, Jerel and I jogged along what we agreed was probably the most beautiful jogging path in the world (challenge, anyone?) before donning black-tie attire for the big event. The celebration was held at the Beau Rivage Palace, a beautiful, grand, lavish hotel with a Baroque feel. The short and sweet marriage ceremony was followed by cocktails and hors d’oeuvres in the spectacular hotel gardens overlooking the lake. The reception offered great food and entertainment, including risqué speeches, a comical newlywed game (the ‘shoe game’ – where bride & groom answer provocative questions from the guests), and live music and dance moves from across the decades.

Easter Sunday, Natacha let her game-loving side shine with a fabulous Easter-egg hunt involving over 1000 chocolate eggs hidden throughout the expansive hotel gardens. I may not have one the prize for most eggs but I think I won the prize for persistence (I was the only one that left with a grass-stain!). That afternoon, we worked off our chocolate spoils walking through hilly Lausanne, which was quiet even by European standards for a Sunday on account of the Easter holiday.

Hamburg - Day in the Life of a Chippendale

Anyone that knows my older bro won’t be surprised to hear that for the last few months, he’s been on tour in Europe with the Chippendales. They closed out the tour in Hamburg, inviting an easy weekend trip for me and Jerel from Brussels. We weren’t expecting much from Hamburg but it turns out to be quite a lively and scenic city. Canals and bridges abounded - I learned that Hamburg has more bridges than Amsterdam and Venice combined!

After a late arrival on Friday, we kicked off our weekend on Saturday with lunch at Ami’s regular haunt, a casual cafeteria where you are guaranteed the best bang for your buck when it comes to generous portions of healthy food. We spent the afternoon exploring Hamburg, meandering along the Binnenalster (inner city lake) and past the impressive Rathaus (city hall). Jerel and I continued on to enjoy a chilly panoramic view of the city from St. Nikolai’s church, whose ruins are a WWII memorial, while Ami went to rehearsal.

Ami had arranged for guest tickets to the Saturday night show, known to be the craziest night of the week…and crazy it was. I’ve never seen so many seemingly normal women going nuts – upwards of 600 women filled the venue that night. The crowd was on their feet for much of the show, cheering and shrieking. Fortunately, one of the other two men in the audience (the tour manager) was sitting at our table, which gave Jerel some comfort. He tried his hardest to look like he was on official business as well. The show was a lot of fun, with impressive dancing and music (and abs). To my relief, I didn’t have to close my eyes nearly as much as I had feared… The show also featured a good dose of audience participation, and to my dismay, Ami had ensured that I would be picked as one of the ‘volunteers’. Suffice it to say that I survived, with even greater appreciation for the nerve it takes to perform in front of a big audience.
After the show, I stood in shock as women lined up to take their picture with Ami, or requested an autograph. Either he’s a good actor or the experience hasn’t grown old even after 6 shows a week for several months! After the show, we navigated the bustling Reeperbahn together (Europe’s largest red light district) and joined Ami for his second dinner.

Sunday and Monday passed much the same as Saturday, to the rhythm of Ami’s sleep-eat-exercise-eat-perform-eat life. Katharina (Ezra’s girlfriend) joined us from Berlin as did her friend Jana who lives just outside Hamburg. Jerel returned to Brussels for work on Monday while I stayed behind. Katharina and Jana attended the show on Sunday and it seemed that they also enjoyed it …I caught them posing with one of the other Chippendale’s when I returned to meet up with them after the show in the ‘flirt lounge’. Sunday ‘apres-show’, Ami and I joined some of the guys for dinner, which made for some interesting conversation. Monday, Ami and I passed a pleasantly quiet day, lifting weights at the gym (my pecs are still recovering!) and lingering over lunch and tea. All in all a very satisfying and memorable weekend.

Morocco - Spring Getaway with Bronwyn

After several months of grey winter, Brownyn and I agreed that a spring getaway was in order. We settled on Morocco as our destination, for its warm weather, interesting culture, and easy access from Europe. Upon arrival into Marrakesh, we were initially taken aback by the dusty streets and worn stone buildings, but soon warmed to the city as we began to sample its exotic sights, sounds and tastes.

We spent our first 2 days exploring Marrakesh, a city that seems to never sleep. During the day, we struggled not to get lost as we navigated the maze of narrow streets of the souks (markets) where small shops displayed colourful ceramics, blankets, spices and teas. The bargaining skills that I acquired in China were indispensable, as prices were almost always negotiable. At night, we lingered at the main square ‘Djemaa el Fna, where tourists and locals alike congregated until the wee hours. On one end of the square was a collection of stalls offering freshly squeezed orange juice, dried fruits and nuts, and fragrant Moroccan cuisine, all manned by charming young men determined to convince you of their stall’s superiority. The adjacent courtyard featured an eclectic mix of performers (musicians, contortionists) and vendors (traveling pharmaceuticals, henna artists), each encircled by a rapt crowd.

We began and ended our days at a wonderful Riad (B&B) unexpectedly tucked away down a back alley, featuring elegant local décor, private pool, rooftop views and delicious mint tea…the perfect antidote to the craziness of the medina. The only downside of our accommodation was the mournful daily 5am call to prayer from the nearby mosque.

Next, we ventured to the coastal town of Essaouira for 24 hours of relative tranquility. Like Marrakesh, Essaouira remains very down-to-earth despite the thriving tourism industry – Brownyn described it as a ‘Muslim Santa Cruz’. As native ocean girls, we were thrilled to simply walk on the beach and inhale the sea air. The beach was alive with impromptu soccer games, while sunbathers were noticeably lacking. We also enjoyed exploring Essaouira’s lively port, filled with fishermen selling their catch, as well as seagulls and stray cats eager for a spare morsel.

One of the many memorable parts of the trip was our visit to a Hammam – the Moroccan equivalent of a Turkish bath - where we had the roughest scrubbing of our lives and had buckets of warm water dumped on our heads. It was a lot more fun than it sounds and Bronwyn and I both eagerly bought scrubbers so that we could recreate the experience. We wrapped up our visit to Essaouira with camel rides on the beach, a first for both of us. We couldn’t stop grinning as we climbed the sand dunes, the perfect ending to our Moroccan escapade. We returned to our respective homes the following morning, equipped with tea, spices, scrubbers and more, keen to bring a taste of Morocco home with us.

Bronwyn Visits Brussels - Quel Plaisir!

Last weekend, we hosted the first of hopefully many visitors to the pink room at “chez Jerel et Chana” in Brussels. The lucky guest was Bronwyn, who traveled from London for a short but very sweet visit.

We took Bronwyn on something of a culinary tour of Brussels on Saturday, starting with authentic Belgian waffles (far superior to the North American imposters) served from the Belgian equivalent of a California ‘taco truck’, moving on to gourmet chocolate tasting, and ending with ‘moules frites’ (mussels and fries). Along the way, we managed to take in a good number of Brussels’ main attractions, including the Grand Place, various beautiful churches, and the notorious ‘Mannekin Pis’, which some say celebrates a young boy who saved the city from fire by peeing on it.

Sunday, we opted for a day trip to Bruges, perhaps one of the world’s quaintest cities. This medieval town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and on the surface, seems to have hardly changed since its time as a thriving trading center in the 13th and 14th centuries. It truly feels like a step back in time, complete with horse-drawn carriages. There isn’t much to do in Bruges besides climbing the narrow, winding staircase to the top of the bell tower, strolling through the town and along the narrow canals, and sipping beer (or raspberry Lambec, yum!)…all of which makes for a great afternoon.

Monday, Bronwyn joined me and the other regulars for “Lundi matin RPM” (indoor cycling) at my second home, the gym. Quel plaisir! We then took a brisk stroll to the nearby ‘Etangs d’Ixelles’, scenic manmade ponds featuring an interesting assortment of birds, and where spring fever is in full swing amongst birds and humans alike! We had just enough time to squeeze in some souvenir shopping so that Bronwyn wouldn’t be chastised for leaving Belgium without chocolates (and beer) in tow.

I hope that this blurb helps to entice any potential visitors that are wavering on the allure of Brussels! For more photos please click here.

Valentine's in Paris

Aaah, Paris! I’m not normally a big city person, preferring beaches, forests and mountains to concrete jungles, yet, somehow Paris captivated me. I think it has something to do with the city’s energy and balance…Parisians seem to balance their busyness with a knack for taking advantage of life’s simple pleasures. The busyness is typified by the hustle and bustle of the streets, the relentless traffic and scores of cyclists, while the countless cafes and restaurants bursting with life at all hours (a sharp contrast to sleepy Brussels) speak to the other side of the coin. As we sipped coffee (it’s growing on me!) in a café on Sunday, it struck me that many the things we consider a treat - croissant breakfasts in cute cafés, jogs along the river or past middle aged churches, and lingering, delicious dinners - are part of daily life in Paris. Given the short train ride from Brussels, I just might become a part time Parisian over the next few months!

Saturday, Jerel and I created our own walking tour of Paris. We started the day breakfasting amidst joggers in Jardin du Luxembourg, then slowly wound our way through the streets to the very gothic Notre Dame cathedral. Jerel and I had both visited Notre Dame nearly 10 years ago but had no trouble appreciating the majestic flying buttresses, ornate columns, and rose windows for a second time. We next headed past the Louvre courtyard, through the Jardin de Tuileries to the busy Champs-Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe. We concluded our tour at the Tour d’Eiffel where we witnessed spectacles including a Valentine’s Day proposal and college girls sporting “free hugs” signs. The extremely long lines forced us to postpone our trip up the tower for the next day.

That evening we attended a unique musical show, starring our Brussels apartment landlord - Jean-Felix Lalanne – who had kindly invited us as his guests. Jean-Felix was a childhood guitar prodigy is now a top classical guitarist (though his repertoire is much broader). The setting at Théâtre du Petit Hébertot was intimate (~100 people) and the performance was part concert part play. It was a timeless autobiography with three cast members: present day Lalanne, in the flesh, feisty 10-year-old Lalanne and nostalgic 90-year-old Lalanne. His younger and older selves spoke were presented as, believe it or not, holograms. The show was both touching and musically impressive.

Sunday, we awoke to another beautiful day and headed directly to the Eiffel tower…stumbling along the way upon an open market with delicious crepes and also making the requisite café stop. When we finally made it to the (almost) top of the tower, it seemed possible to behold all of expansive Paris. The long lines, the pushing and even the overpriced, bad food were definitely worth it. From the tower, we made our way along La Seine to the Musée d’Orsay. We did the ‘best of’ tour, which essentially means you don’t leave anything out, including plenty of Monet, Renoir and Van Gogh…leaving just about the perfect impression from our weekend in Paris.

For more photos of our weekend in Paris click here.

Bienvenue à Bruxelles

Time flies when you’re eating chocolate… We’ve been in Brussels for about 3 weeks now and are already quite settled – we have not only obtained an apartment furnished to our taste, cell phones, and gym membership but are already cultivating guanxi (à la Shanghai) at our favourite local shops and cafes. I think I’m finally getting the hang of the relocation business!

Jerel and I have both been pleasantly surprised at how much Brussels has to offer, managing to be simultaneously international and cozy. The city is full of grand old buildings, impressive squares, and pleasant parks (two of which are very close to our new apartment!). The vast maze of cobbled streets offers an endless selection of cute clothing boutiques, flower shops, cafes, chocolateries, pubs, and restaurants (and a notable abundance of hair salons!?).

The predominant language here is French, which makes interactions with the locals a little challenging at times but also more fun. I am loving being able to finally put all those years of French schooling to use. More often than not, I can get the job done and have even garnered a few compliments on my French, (which, I admit, make my day). Still, I clearly have a ways to go as to my chagrin, I sometimes receive replies in English. Jerel arrived with almost zero French but thanks to his background in Spanish and his aptitude and enthusiasm for languages he is learning quickly.

Here are a few other first observations on Brussels and Belgians:

1. The people are very friendly. Strangers frequently converse, or at least exchange greetings that seem very sincere. Jerel loves riding the elevator in the morning at work for at each floor there is a chorus of well-wishes (“Bonne journée!”) between those exiting the elevators and those continuing up.
2. A balanced lifestyle is a high priority. In contrast to the workaholicism of North America (and China), Belgians seem to protect their personal time. It can be very hard to find anything open on a Sunday or after 7pm on a weekday. Even IKEA is closed on Sunday! I am still in denial about this and find myself frequently shocked when things are closed at what I consider normal business hours.
3. Chocolate is a food group. I guess you can’t blame them with so much good chocolate around, but I was floored when I first entered a large supermarket and saw that more than half of the adult cereals have chocolate. Who ever heard of special K or granola with dark chocolate?! I will never forget the hot chocolate that I had while watching the Obama inauguration (in French). Simply divine!
4. Specialty shops are the norm. While this is certainly not unique to Belgium, I nonetheless find it baffling that people find time (before 7 pm, no less!) to go to separate shops for cheese, bread, produce etc. Also, chains are out - I have yet to see a single Starbucks (although I did spot a few McDs and Haagen Dazs).
5. Pedestrians are king/queen! I would have taken this fact for granted before living in Shanghai, but I now truly appreciate not having to worry about being run over when I cross the road…Brussels is clearly on the opposite extreme from Shanghai when it comes to pedestrian rights.

Not a bad place, eh? The only downers so far are the weather, which seems like a colder version of Vancouver, and the prices – not crazy, just a bit of sticker shock after China. I must confess that I really miss the affordable luxuries of Shanghai!